Climbing Mt Kinabalu - The Highest I've Ever Been (4,095m)
By Kirah - September 05, 2019
Mount Kinabalu was one of those accessible peaks that I've been keen to conquer for some time. It is located at the West Coast Division of Sabah, Malaysia and protected as Kinabalu Park, a World Heritage Site. Standing majestically at 4,095 meters (13,435 feet) it is easily the highest mountain in Malaysia. The mountain and its surroundings are among the most important biological sites in the world. Among this rich collection of wildlife are famous species such as the gigantic Rafflesia plants and orangutans. Mount Kinabalu has been accorded UNESCO World Heritage status.
Climbing experts claim Gunung Kinabalu as one of the easiest big mountains you are likely to climb but don't think it is a piece of cake. Low's Peak can be climbed by an individual in good physical condition and there is no need for mountaineering equipment at any point on the main route, but climbers must be accompanied by accredited guides at all times due to national park regulations and may experience altitude sickness.
This time Nadiah and Olel agreed to join me for this adventure. Since there are only 185 climb permits per day issued by Sabah Parks, we booked this trip super early (8 months before) to avoid disappointment. Ohana Adventure Sport is the organizer for this activity. They were 18 climbers joining this trip including us. We decided to join Ohana because they are trusted and a well-known local organizer. We paid for RM899 for 3 days 2 nights Mount Kinabalu hiking trip excluding the flight tickets (as we have our own plan after that). With flight tickets, it costs RM1399. It is standard price rate for Malaysian (non-Sabahan). This package inclusive:
- Self-drive rental car
- 1 night stay at Kundasang
- 1 night stay at Laban Rata
- Forestry permit
- Kinabalu Park entrance fee
- Licensed Mountain Guide
- Insurance and Certificate
Nadiah was the first one among us to arrive at Kota Kinabalu International Airport and departed to Kundasang. Olel and I had personal things to settle, thus we flew a bit late and arrived the airport at night. We drove a car with other three participants and finally arrived at provided accommodation around 2am. We stayed at Mile 36 Lodge in Kundasang which located only 2km away from Mount Kinabalu National Park. It is advisable for climbers to stay at Kundasang prior the climb for high altitude acclimatization.
Things you should/might bring for mountain climb activity:
- Waterproof backpack
- Trekking shoes with good grip
- Warm clothing/Long sleeves shirt/Hiking pants
- Jacket/Wind breaker
- Extra clothing and socks
- Small towel
- Hand gloves and winter hat
- Raincoats
- Head torch (compulsory)
- Personal toiletries
- Refillable water bottle (0.5 – 1 Litre)
- High energy food
- Medication (for headache or altitude sickness)
- Sun block lotion, lip gloss, plasters
- Camera with water proof bag
- Sandals / Slippers
- Plastic bags
Day 1 - Begin the climb and reach Panalaban via Timpohon Gate
That morning, we woke up as early as 6am and get ready to go to Kinabalu National Park after having breakfast. After completing all the necessary registrations and briefing at the Park HQ, we were introduced to the legal mountain guides for our group. Some of us hired porter to bring our bags to the base camp. The price is fix which costs RM13 for every kg of your belongings. We received an ID tag. The ID tag must be worn at all times during the climb. It is required for checking in and out of the mountain accommodation, passing through checkpoints, and ensures Sabah Parks knows who is on the summit trail at any one time and our approximate location.
ID tag for each of us
Then, we proceeded to Timpohon Gate, the starting point. The distance between Park HQ and Timpohon Gate is 4.5km and took us approximately 10 minutes by car. There were total of 5 guides for our group. We were given a short briefing and performed simple du'a before begin our summit. Climbers who started the hike after 11am would probably be denied and refused to proceed with the climb that day. To reach Laban Rata guesthouse (3,272 m) at Panalaban we have to hike a solid rough 6km with an average climbing time of 4-5 hours. We started our climb around 9am. The path is well defined and maintained and consists mainly of rocky, uneven steps. Climbers pass through rainforest at the beginning which thins out to more temperate vegetation at higher altitudes. There are about a lot of shelters along the way where hikers can catch the breath, use the toilet, refill the water bottles (not recommended) and deposit any rubbish into bins.
Briefing by the guide before begin the trekking
One of many shelter available along the way
Before the rains fall
The final kilometer of the first day was the steepest and most difficult. It really tested our mental and psychology. I thought I was scammed. It felt like 3km instead. I found my self emerged above the forest canopy and into an almost bonsai-esque landscape that reminded me a lot of Japanese gardens. At this stage, I have to set a mind control and talked to myself it was only 1 km away. The rain had been building up over the past couple of hours, and it was starting to pour. It became more difficult because it was raining on our last 2 km. We had to put on our rain coat. We had to be extra cautious as the rain had slicked up the rocky paths and the route had become more slippery. Three of us were the first to arrive at Panalaban. We began our climb at 9am and reached Panalaban at 1pm, a total of 4 hours hike. It is actually considered pretty impressive for the first timer like us.
Laban Rata is the biggest accommodation on Mount Kinabalu and is operated by Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (SSL). As it is where the majority of people stay and where meals are served for all climbers, it has become synonymous with Panalaban, as Laban Rata. We may check-in from 2pm and since we arrived earlier and the room was already available. Room was non-heated and bathrooms are shared with no hot water. Buffet meals are included as part of our accommodation package, however, Laban Rata also sells a variety of different snacks and essential items, along with some meals we can purchase outside of meal times. Please note that Laban Rata is cash only and all purchases must be paid in Malaysian ringgit. The provided meals were variety and plentiful. There were some local dishes like curries and rice, some salads, pasta and noodles, soup and fruits. For climbers with specific dietary preferences for example with particular allergies, you may be served a separate meal. Please be mind, tea and coffee will be provided at supper and breakfast only, but not at dinner. Drinking water is not provided at any meal, this always needs to be purchased.
It was quite rushed and crowded for dinner around 5pm, so manage your time wisely. The bathrooms were good and clean, but the water was brutally cold. Most people skip the shower and bring wet wipes to tide themselves over instead. I regretted big time taking the shower that day. I had to do hundreds star-jump to warm up my body. Bedding is provided but the non-heated dorm rooms are freezing at night. Bring clothing suitable for cold mountain weather. I slept in thermal tops and bottoms, jackets, gloves, beanies and socks on. With little else to do in the hostel and no energy left to wander around, everybody surrender to bed early to prepare for the next day's early trek to the summit.
Day 2 - Mount Kinabalu Summit Trail
We woke up at 1.30am in the early hours of morning and had a light supper. Since we don't want to start on an empty stomach, we don't want to be really full either. It's not the way we want to ascent the summit. Just bring along some sugary snacks or energy bars for quick surge of energy when the body needs it. That morning, it was raining and we had to slightly delay the climb as we had to wait the approval from ranger in-charged. Our group was the last group to depart and begin the hike.
Currently all climbers must take the New Ranau Trail to the summit. Finally, around 3am, we began the endless flights of steps with countless ladders and ropes in place to assist over the tricky bits. Initially, we had to almost queue up at the congested areas which was a bit inconvenient but soon enough the crowds thinned out as people moved at different paces. We were climbing in the dark so a flashlight is essential for this part of the hike. A headlamp is necessary as both hands needed for climbing during the ropes section. The first part of the ropes section was a mentally challenging for me. I kept my momentum intact as I wanted to reduce the impact on my knees. I thought I was alone, surprisingly Olel was right at my back and followed my pace. We ended up cheering for each other and he became my pacer. We arrived Sayat-sayat checkpoint at 4.15am and managed to catch up with the first group. Upon reaching Sayat-Sayat, climbers must showed the ID tag and you will be refused to proceed the climb without the tag. Take note, there is a cut off time to reach Sayat-Sayat which is at 5.30am. Later than 5.30am climbers is not allowed to climb until the peak of Mount Kinabalu.
After a cup of hot coffee and few gulps of water to keep my body hydrated and energized, we continued the second part of the climb. The final stages of the climb were over a massive bare granite slab, smoothed and furrowed by some long-extinct glacier. At this point, altitude sickness began to take its toll especially who experienced nausea and weak limbs. Plodding on and moving slow became a mental struggle. I just kept looking at my feet and I tried to follow in Olel's footsteps and keep up with his pace. What really helped me though was just concentrating on what little rock I could see with my headlamp before me and channeling my energy into each step rather than allowing the whole situation to consume me. This kept me going.
After a cup of hot coffee and few gulps of water to keep my body hydrated and energized, we continued the second part of the climb. The final stages of the climb were over a massive bare granite slab, smoothed and furrowed by some long-extinct glacier. At this point, altitude sickness began to take its toll especially who experienced nausea and weak limbs. Plodding on and moving slow became a mental struggle. I just kept looking at my feet and I tried to follow in Olel's footsteps and keep up with his pace. What really helped me though was just concentrating on what little rock I could see with my headlamp before me and channeling my energy into each step rather than allowing the whole situation to consume me. This kept me going.
This trail had ropes along the way on the floor for guidance, so hikers could crawl up the mountain. It was really steep climb where I had to catch my breath many times. We have to lie flat on the rock surface, holding on to the ropes for our precious life while the feet grasped on the smooth slopes. The attempt for this course in pitch black darkness while fingers frozen from the cold with howling winds blowing across my face is still solid in my memory. I was 10 minutes behind Olel. Finally at 5.40am, I reached Low's Peak, the highest point of Mount Kinabalu. So it took me around 2 hours and 40 minutes conquered the glorious Mount Kinabalu which is not bad at all. I could feel the coldness and wind struck into my bones. It was nearly 0 degree Celsius and I was shivering and my hands were freezing.
When visibility was clearer, the surrounding view bolstered my waning strength. It was stunning and otherworldly, it quite literally takes one’s breath away. I couldn't even begin to describe the view from the top as the first rays of sunrise peek their way from behind the clouds. At this point, all tiredness and muscle soreness were forgotten. The breath-taking view from the top is indescribable, with a souffle of clouds floating around.
We planned to do something crazier on this mission. Since Malaysia Independence Day was just 2 days away, we brought our traditional costume along. Then, we put it on and took picture with Malaysia's flag. It was a bit different and so much value to our hearts.
After total of 2 hours taking in the magnificent sight and taking pictures, I rested awhile longer to regain my strength for the trek back. It was time to return to Laban Rata for breakfast before continuing our descent to the base camp. This time round, the trail was the gruesome trail of steps. The view of our downward journey was just as spectacular, and with the warm sun up in the sky, I was slowly thawing and feeling more alive. Above the clouds, we had unobstructed views of the massive rock-faces. The sub-alpine shrubs that dot the landscape also revealed themselves.
Coming down, though easier on the heart and lungs, it was brutal on the knees and much harder than going up. Mostly vertical hike down was taking it’s toll on my poor knees. The muscles in my thighs and calves were really sore and so it became an arduous journey back to Laban Rata. Walking down the steps slowly made my knees ache. A steady footing is key to ensure the safety and minimize risk of injuries.
I arrived Laban Rata at 9.30am. Please take note that check out time at Laban Rata is fix at 10.30am. You might be charged RM100 per hour if you are late to check out. Back at Laban Rata, we had couple of hours to rest and enjoyed the breakfast provided. Once we freshened up and got ready for the final part of the hike. It was time to head back to the Timpohon Gate which was another 6km hike. Down to Timpohon Gate were grueling.
Around 11am, we set off. The steepness of the path, the endless rough steps and unforgiving terrain inflicted a constant punishment on both of my knees. The skies decided to open and unleash a steady flow of torrential downpour for most of the way down, turning the rocky paths into miniature waterfalls and makeshift rivers. Luckily, we had waterproof pants and jackets as well as rain covers. We need to focus and be alert with the time as climbers who reach Timpohon Gate after 4.30pm will be imposed a fee of RM15 per hour per guide and need to pay directly to mountain guide on the spot.
Along the way down, I passed by groups of climbers heading up to Laban Rata. Many of them were in good spirits and responded to my good luck greetings. As usual, Olel was nowhere to be found. I was alone at the first km and then my cute porter, Alvin came in to rescue my loneliness and became my spirit booster. He is just 21 year old boy but has a 7 years experiences as a porter. I truly salute the people like them, making their hard-earn money by dreadful sweat and tears. It was really a tough job. I was cheered during my way down to Timpohon Gate as I have personal pacer kind-of and I have someone to talk to mainly about life goals and what to do in Kundasang. I knew that the finishing line was just around the corner. It was nearly 2pm when we reached the waterfall near the trail-head. With the last reserves of my strength, I sprinted the last 50 metres, all the way to the top of the stairs at Timpohon Gate and I almost had tears when I saw the “You are successful climbers” sign.
Olel and I were among the earliest in our group to complete the climb. Fully soaked, it was an uncomfortable for us so I decided to take shower and changed clothes while waiting for others to return to Park HQ. I bid my farewell to my porter and took picture with him. Since it was not the end of our journey in Sabah, it was weird as I was walking like a crab. It took number of days for my body especially the feet to recover and every time someone would look at me strangely, I'd feel the need to explain ''Baru panjat gunung'' (Just climbed the mountain). Then, we straight went to the Park HQ and claimed our certificate of climbing. We transferred to our chalet at Kiram's village which located only 10 minutes from the Kinabalu Park.
Until today, I still can't believe one of my hardest life goal was a success!
3 comments
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